Macedonia & Vienna Travel Log
Part Five: Arriving in Macedonia
Sunday I arrived in Skopje. My hosts,
Marija and Zoran, and their daughter Ema, took me out on a walking tour
around the heart of the city to help me orient myself. We crossed the
famous stone bridge into the Old City and climbed up to Kale Fortress.
At present, archaeologists are excavating there, and other work is being
done to restore the walls and parapets. If you're used to North
American historic sites, crowded with signs, summer-student tour guides
reciting what is on the signs, and careful walkways, this is quite a
change. No tourists that I saw, but lots of locals sitting around
enjoying a nice afternoon. No ropes -- you are expected to use common
sense and not stand on the edge of steep crumbling things. No signs. Look it up on Wikipedia afterwards,
if you want to know details. What you do get is a much more intimate
connection with the place. You feel it's real, not something carefully
put together for show. This would be very nerve-wracking if I was
visiting it with my swarm of nephews, of course!
Looking around, it's easy
to see why it was an important point for command of the Vardar River,
which curves around below it. There's a sweep of high hills (or low
mountains) around the horizon, but nothing close enough to be
threatening until more modern weaponry. It would definitely have
controlled the Vardar at this bend. One very beautiful view over the
walls includes a pine tree and the minaret of a mosque against the misty
blue distance.
Coming down the hill, we
wandered in the enclosed courtyard garden of a church. It was a very
peaceful, still place, which reminded me a lot of a Japanese
garden, I think because of the way it was enclosed, with a cloister or
covered walkway along the wall evoking a Japanese veranda. (Probably not
the correct term when applied to a Japanese building, but at this point
in my travels the mind is feeling a bit hazy.) We also passed a Turkish
bathhouse from the Ottoman era, with two large domes and a number of
smaller ones. It's now an art gallery.
Back across the river in
the "new" side of the city again, we ate Middle Eastern food in a
rooftop garden. Then we saw the Skopje City Museum, located in the old
railway station, which has been left with its damage from the earthquake
of the 'sixties un-repaired, the clock stopped at the time the
earthquake struck. The museum
was closed, but outside it is a row of Roman marble gravestones and
sarcophagi. Despite my hat, I think I may have gotten a bit of sunburn,
but as the BBC is predicting rain for the next couple of days, it's good
to have enjoyed the nice weather outside, after the rain of Vienna.
Tomorrow sounds like it will be back to my handy rain poncho again.
And as an afterthought -- my hosts tell me that in fact there are places in Macedonia famous for their cheese (see the first journal entry), and we'll be visiting one on Monday.
|
Marija, Zoran, and Ema
Kale Fortress
View from Fortress
Domes of the Art Gallery
|